Savannah, GA: Top 5 Foodie Stops

After eight hours in an office that feels like the inside of an ice cube, I’m daydreaming about being on a beach with a good book and an adult beverage. After all, it's August in South Carolina...I shouldn't be this cold! Where is my triple digit heat and humidity?!

Since the closest beach is over three hours away, I’m blogging about my favorite city by the sea -- Savannah, Georgia -- to take my mind off of my icy toes. Savannah’s food scene is growing by leaps and bounds. Every trip, I find a new restaurant or specialty shop to try out. Very seldom am I disappointed in my finds. So, today, I give you five of my favorite places to eat in Savannah (and the surrounding areas). These are in no particular order because I can’t play favorites.

Lazaretto Creek, between Savannah and Tybee Island

1. Café GelatOhh. Most travel guides will tell you that Leopold’s has the best ice cream in Savannah, and I’m not going to argue that point. But if you want gelato, stop by Café GelatOhhh in City Market. Rumor has it they also serve salads and sandwiches. I know nothing of those. Gelato is my only reason for visiting multiple times on a single trip to Savannah. ($)
2. The Salt Table. It’s a one-stop shop for salts, spices, sugars and other seasonings. The Tuscan Bread Dipping Oil Seasoning Mix goes great with a loaf of bread and a cheese plate. The Black Truffle Sea Salt is great with everything! The staff is great and extremely helpful. They can make recommendations based on your preferences and provide samples as you browse the shelves. ($$)
3. The Crab Shack. Fair warning: There are live alligators out front, exotic birds in the gift shop and a cat colony...well, they’re everywhere. The food is consistently great, and the view from the deck is unbeatable. Be sure to take your bug spray to ward off the no-see-ums. But if you do have a run-in with the evil little sand gnats, immediately coat the bites in Chiggerx and avoid the misery of thousands of itching bumps. (Seriously…this is the best $8 I’ve ever spent in Savannah!) ($$)
4. North Beach Grill on Tybee Island. Sure, you can go to The Crab Shack, and I guarantee a great meal. North Beach Grill, located between the Tybee lighthouse and the ocean, features local, sustainable seafood with a touch of Carribbean goodness. Just follow the sounds of Bob Marley. Grab a beer and a huge plate of jerk chicken, fish tacos and crab cakes. You won’t be sorry. ($)
5.  Ampersand. This is a ridiculously trendy gastropub, and I’m not usually a fan of overly trendy anything. I loved it. The food was excellent –the Pernil (Puerto Rican-style roast pork over Gouda grits) was to die for. The guys loved the craft beer selection, but I (really, really) enjoyed the Elder Patrick (tequila, melon liqueur, lime juice and mint) and Popcorn Sutton’s Apple Pie Moonshine. ($$$...add as many $ as you need to cover your drinks) 

The only thing between the ocean and North Beach Grill

You may notice that Paula Deen’s The Lady and Sons is missing from the list. I’ve been there, and the food was good. However, growing up in the South, The Lady and Sons was not a great adventure for me. It’s more like an overpriced, overcrowded Sunday dinner at Grandma’s house.

While we’re on the subject of Paula, you may have heard of her brother’s restaurant Uncle Bubba’s Oyster House closed a few months ago under questionable circumstances. Bubba’s chargrilled oysters were AMAZING. Luckily, if you have his cookbook (or Google), you can make your own at home. Just buy an extra dozen or so. You’ll need them.

Coming up in my Savannah Series: Sightseeing for Lazy People, Even More Foodie Stops, and The Best of The Best in Savannah. Look for it soon!

Split Creek Farm…It’s More Than a Goat Farm

Continuing with this week’s cheese-y theme, let’s take a minute to appreciate one of my favorite places in Upstate South Carolina – Split Creek Farm. No, really…just read the description from their website:

The Grade A Dairy is in a barn designed and built by the owners to include the milking and cheese operations and a kid nursery. A retail gift shop featuring goat milk products and folk art is open to the public. We invite you to use the links at the upper right corner of this page to shop for our award winning farmstead goat cheeses, goat milk fudge, goat milk yogurt, gift baskets and folk art. 

Cheese. Fudge. Yogurt. Homemade lavender soap that smells like heaven. Baby goats. Gorgeous, giant Great Pyrenees guarding the herd. What else do you need?

The farm, owned and operated by Evin Evans and Patricia Bell, has won national recognition for their cheese, milk, and fudge. I can vouch that the recognition was well deserved. I’ve tried all of their offerings as well as the locally sourced fresh eggs, honey, grits (or polenta if you’re above the Mason-Dixon line), and other assorted goodies – living less than 15 minutes from the farm will eventually be my downfall. But for those of you a little farther away, you can order Split Creek products online. Below are my recommendations for a happy order:

• Peach Fromage Blanc. If you’re a fan of cream cheese (and I am), you’ll love the peach fromage. The usual tangy goat cheese flavor is mellowed out by the sweetness of the peaches. It’s perfect for breakfast on a bagel, as an appetizer with crackers, or a snack with nothing more than a spoon. Don’t judge me.
• Pesto Chevre Log. Let me preface this by warning you – this is addictive. I’ve used this as a stand-alone appetizer or as a stuffing for chicken, beef and mushrooms.
• Marinated Feta with Olives and Sundried Tomatoes. Just get a fork and be happy. I fully intend to use this in a recipe, but it never lasts long enough. Once you’ve eaten the cheese, olives and tomatoes, save the olive. It’s great on salads or as a marinade.
• Fudge. I will not play favorites here. Every flavor is delicious and very, very rich. Buy twice as much as you think you’ll need. Trust me.

If you’re in the Upstate, take the time to visit Split Creek Farm. In addition to the adorable goats, you can learn a lot about the milk and cheese-making processes. Check the website or call the farm for tour times and pricing. The Hen House is home to unique folk art pieces and other locally grown/made edibles. Make a day of it and stop by the one-of-a-kind stores on the square (recommendation: Mountain Made) or have lunch at Farmer’s Hall. And feel free to send me a gift basket of fudge.

Say Cheeeeeeeese!

Really, what else was I going to title this one?

I spent the afternoon on Saturday, July 26 at the Third Annual Finger Lakes Cheese Festival in beautiful Odessa, NY.  This quiet rural town in the Southern Finger Lakes region of Upstate NY has a population of just over 600. No, that's not a misprint. The festival, now in its third year, was expected to draw between 3,000 to 5,000 people, which (by my unofficial count) seemed low. This means that for a brief afternoon, the population of this sleepy little burg was upped by a factor of 10. Yikes.

The event was held at the "Sunset View Creamery", a "century" family-run farm high atop a hill in Odessa with, well, a beautiful view of the sunset in an idyllic setting. There haven't been this many people descending on a farm in Upstate NY since Jimi Hendrix played at Max Yasgur's in 1969. Call it "Cheesestock".

Don't let this picture fool you; this is just a small section of the huge parking area.

Along with the massive explosion in wineries in the Finger Lakes Region has come an increased interest in the region's farms, which produce some of the finest cheeses in the Northeast. Along with the various "wine trails" which are usually centered around one or more of the lakes in the region, there is now a Finger Lakes Cheese Trail, which promotes the fine cheeses in the region.

The family farmers at Sunset View Creamery did a fantastic job of promoting and staging this event; people were lined up for parking well before the 10AM opening. Vendor tents were set up, and a full schedule of events were planned, ranging from the informative (seminars on cheese-making, workshops on beer and cheese pairing) to fun (hay rides, goat milking) to the, well...I'm not sure what adjective to use to describe "Bossy Bingo", but you can use your imagination. Yes, it's exactly what you think.

The admission fee was a more than reasonable $2. While waiting in line for our wristbands, live music wafted over the crowd. The guitar player was doing a serviceable job of a Neil Young song. Always a good sign.

In addition to the numerous vendors, there was a heavy emphasis on education. As I mentioned, Sunset View Creamery is a working farm, run by fourth- and fifth-generation farmers. This is not some massive factory farm, but rather the kind of family farm that is largely disappearing from the rural landscape. Kudos to the Hoffman family for opening up their farm to thousands of strangers. While there, visitors could get up close and personal to the cattle on the farm, along with some of the other residents such as pigs, chickens and goats, as well as some very special guests.

You can call me Al-paca

I think this is "Uncle" from Charlotte's Web

Other participating vendors and farmers brought along baby pigs, and even a couple Alpacas, who were both shy, but garnered a lot of attention. A honey vendor was there, and I had quite an informative conversation with a six-year-old visitor who told me all about the honeybee display on the vendor's table, even telling me where to find the Queen in the hive. Good times.

That's the Queen with the green dot. I'm pretty sure that's not genetic.

I grew up in rural Southeast Michigan, and while I have more than a passing familiarity with what goes on in a family farm, my kids have grown up in the city and are much further removed from the day-to-day workings of responsible animal husbandry. It was fun watching them get up close with the residents of the farm.

Other vendors were there selling everything from dog biscuits to homemade soaps (the goat milk soaps were particularly popular). There were purveyors of olive oils, representatives from local tourism agencies, and even a massage station for those weary souls who needed a break. Pulled Pork and other goodies were available from one of my favorite food vendors, Burke's Barbeque, who brought their unique portable smokehouse to the event.

Photo provided by Burke's Barbecue

But the highlight of the event was, of course the cheese. There was cheese everywhere; it was like a Monty Python sketch (only this time, yes, the cheese shop actually had cheese).

So much cheese, so little time

If there was one problem, it was perhaps that the festival was a victim of its own success. The lines tended to be long, but the crowd was generally understanding and reasonable. Vendors were exceptionally patient, educational, and quick to share knowledge and information. It was one of the most polite crowds I've ever seen (which is really typical of rural Upstate NY, in my experience).

Because bacon. Yeah, it was really good.

These were too cute to pass up.

I could go into excruciating detail about the cheeses I tasted, the ones I finally purchased, and the amazing range of experiences I had. But for purposes of brevity, I'll say this: it was a remarkable experience, particularly since it was held on the grounds of an actual working farm. There's often a huge disconnect between the food on our plate and our knowledge of where it comes from. To witness firsthand the dedication of these working family famers, the love and care they show the animals in their care, and their amazing stewardship of the land entrusted to them is extremely admirable. 

So here's the haul I took home: A selection of cheeses from Sunset View Creamery, "Heaven Scent Farm" in Cohocton, NY,  and Englebert Farms in Nichols NY, homemade soaps from "angelicglow" and "West Creek Family Farm", homemade dog biscuits from Bo's Bones, amazing fudge from Heavenly Treats in Corning, NY, the aforementioned "baby bear" honey from Berkshire Hills Honey Bee Farm, and even a cheese slicer from the store on the farm property. All local products from small companies and family farms. There were just way too many delicious choices to come home with everything I would have liked. I can't wait until next year.

We're gonna need a bigger fridge...

* A note about the soaps I purchased: In the interest of full disclosure and family unity, I purchase most of my soaps from the excellent WaxWorx Custom Candles and Gifts, a company run by my cousin Stephy. Her products are amazing, and I encourage you to also give her careful consideration when considering a soap purchase. 

The Elmira, NY Street Painting Festival

Elmira's 150th Year Logo

My adopted hometown of Elmira, NY has a long rich history. Once known as the "Queen City" in Upstate NY, it's celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. The town has its origins in the Revolutionary war; long a home of the Iroquois, Europeans settled here shortly after the war, and legend has it that the city was named after an unruly child in a local tavern. It's a somewhat gritty post-industrial town still struggling to recover from a devastating flood that all but destroyed its downtown business district some 40+ years ago.

It hardly seems like the obvious place for an arts festival, does it?

Well, it took a lot of foresight and a big leap of faith to create the "Elmira Street Painting Festival" in July, 2008. The first year brought artists, bands, arts and crafts and food vendors to a downtown that would, on a normal weekend, be all but deserted.

This photo from the 2014 Festival shows the heart of the downtown business district

The festival was not without its detractors or growing pains; the first year was marred by rain and cold weather, but luckily, artists and city leaders saw the potential, and now the event has become an annual signature event for Elmira.

Street painting has a similar long, rich history. From the Elmira Street Painting Festival website:

Street painting, also commonly known as street art, is the activity of rendering artistic designs on pavement such as streets, sidewalks, and town squares with impermanent materials. Street Painting originated in Italy in the 16th century. Street painters were called "madonnaro", which translates to Madonna, because the early images were mostly of the Madonna. The madonnari were traveling artists. Aware of festival and holy days in each province and town, they traveled to join in the festivities. They created images in public squares and in front of the local church using bits of broken roof tiles, charcoal, and white chalk. Passersby would often leave a bit of bread or olive oil for the artist along with an occasional coin. After the festivities or with the first rain, both the painting and the painter would vanish. 

I'm a big fan of interactive public art, so street painting hits a sweet spot with me. There's something remarkable about watching simple tools like chalk and brushes in the hands of a skilled artist bring out results like these:

There was also live music throughout the two-day festival on two stages.

I also have a personal connection to the festival. For the third year, my son Andrew was participating as an artist in the festival. This was, however, his first year participating as a registered artist, and the first year since he's had formal art training. Andrew is a 22-year-old with Autism, and his talent for art has been extremely important in helping him integrate into the larger world outside the disability community. Here he is working on his drawing of JFK (with, ironically, Marilyn Monroe in the background. No, it wasn't planned that way):

There were several standout pieces, and the depth of the creativity was truly astounding:

One of the questions that comes up all the time is, "What happens if it rains?" That's not a hypothetical question in Upstate NY, where the weather is unpredictable at best. The weather held throughout the day Saturday, with some scattered rain clouds all around the city, but no inclement weather all day. There was some light rain on Saturday night, but the artists were prepared, covering their works in tarps and plastic, and carefully sealed tightly to protect their works in case of the worst.

Or so we thought. This is what we discovered with Andrew's piece when we uncovered it on Sunday morning:

We weren't alone. While most pieces survived unscathed, several were quite damaged. Like the other artists in that situation, Andrew dabbed the piece dry and set out to fix it, making it even better than it had been. One friend suggested that he should have left it the way it was, and titled it "Tears Of A Nation". Hmmm....maybe next year!

In the end, it turned out to be a fantastic day. Andrew's finished piece even won the "People's Choice" award, given to the work that received the highest number of votes as determined by festival-goers. It was great to see so many artists receive recognition for their temporary masterpieces.

I'm a firm believer in the ability of art to change communities. It was heartening to see thousands of people fill the streets over two days to share a common love of art, music and camaraderie in a town that's not known for its high culture. Elmira, like many communities, does not have to be bound to its past, its reputation, or other people's expectations. The words of JFK seem prophetic and oddly appropriate here:

"History is a relentless master. It has no present, only the past washing into the future. To try to hold fast is to be swept aside."

Indeed.

###

As an aside, I produced a time-lapse of Andrew's JFK drawing. This shows his progress through Saturday, before the rain got to the work:

A Day in Helen, Georgia

Tucked away in the northwestern corner of Georgia is the town of Helen. It’s not what you’d expect of a Georgia mountain town. It looks, smells, and sounds like a Bavarian village, and it is perfect for a day or weekend road trip.

The Alpine Village area is filled with unique shops with hand-carved wooden toys to handmade jewelry. Stop by the glassblower’s shop for a demonstration or visit two Christmas shops filled with handmade ornaments and decorations. Fair warning: the Christmas shops can be expensive. Don’t bother planning. Just start your day at one end of the street and work your way from store to store.

For those hot summer days, Cool River Tubing Company offers daylong tubing passes down the Chattahoochee and a separate waterpark pass for under $20. After paying your fee, you’re loaded on to old school buses, driven to the top of the river, and then sent down the river for a few hours of fun. There is nothing more relaxing than floating down an icy cold mountain river…until you hit a cropping of rocks. Trust me, you’ll remember the rocks for a few days. If you’re not a fan of tubing, you can stop by one of the riverside restaurants and watch the tubers float by.

Foodies will love the choices in Helen. Many of the restaurants serve authentic German fair. The International Café has the best Reuben with homemade sauerkraut you’ve ever put in your mouth. I’m not sure what the sauce is, but it’s not the usual Thousand Island dressing. The French Dip is also worth a try. Ask to be seated with a view of the river.

After shopping or tubing all day, stop by one of the many ice cream or funnel cake shops or better yet, the candy shops. Hansel and Gretel Candy Kitchen is my absolute favorite for salted caramel fudge and Rocky Road fudge and praline pecans and truffles and HUGE candy apples and…well, you get the point. Higher Ground Coffee and More is worth a stop when you need to re-caffeinate.

There are a number of nearby wineries if you’re looking for adult beverages. I recommend stopping by Frogtown Cellars (try the Sangiovese) and Habersham Winery (try the Scarlett) for a tasting. Check their websites before visiting as the hours change seasonally.

This past weekend, I made a new discovery in Helen – Alpine Olive Tree, an olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting shop. Seriously amazing! The staff was incredibly helpful in helping us find a blend of oils and vinegars that we loved. Best of all, you can get a sample box with your own combination of six oils and vinegars for under $30. I bought the Red Apple, Strawberry and Raspberry vinegars and Basil, Baklouti Fused Green Chili and Roasted Walnut oils. I’ll be revisiting their website this week to find new recipes for using my oils and vinegars. They have pastas, bread mixes and accessories for your next oil and vinegar tasting party too.

Bonus Stop:

For those of you nostalgic for the 80’s, you can visit nearby Cleveland, GA, home of Xavier Roberts…you know, the creator of the Cabbage Patch Kids. You can even tour Babyland General and see Mother Cabbage birthing the new babies under the Magical Crystal Tree. The building itself is beautiful, but the giant stone/concrete/ceramic cabbages with babies’ heads poking out and antiquated incubators are creepy. The employees are dressed as doctors and nurses who randomly check the heartbeats of the hundreds of dolls up for adoption. Be sure to ask when the next birth will occur. You’ll get an unforgettable speech about Mother Cabbage being tired after her last delivery, and honestly, you can’t predict when births will occur. (FYI, roughly every 30 minutes.) If you have kids, they may enjoy it. As an adult, it’s quite possibly the weirdest place I’ve been in a while.